Sunday, August 10, 2008

Friday August 8th (Rock On to Squamish Buttress to Joes Dyke

Having summited by 2 or 3 both previous days we decided to push back the departure time to 7 to try and get some much needed rest.

We get to the base of the route first luckily and I start up the first 5.8 pitch, which ends up being nowhere near as casual as I has hoped.

Me on the steeper than expected first pitch



Rock On is a steep left facing corner system for the whole way, and is both strenuous and burly the whole way though. On pitch 5 the last crux I wiggle my way into a flared slot barely squeezing in with my backpack. I can barely see around and am breathing heavy. I get the jam I need up high but when I try to move the backpack is seized in the chimney.

Over the next minute I unleash a verbal barrage at both myself and the rock. Anyone who has seen me climb something near my limit knows what this sounds like. I hope that I at least scared some of the 4 parties following me. The rock afterwards is dripping with lactic acid, and I am pumped beyond belief but atop the pitch.

Turns out I missed a crucial hold which I couldnt see due to my sack being in the way.

This is the karmic rock gods way of getting back at me after I expressed that I havent been pumped in ages. Rule #1 in climbing, get cocky and get burned.

Dora showing how its done on the crux of Rock On



My anchor to bring everyone up to the top of Rock On (this is a joke btw)



From here we hike up to Squamish buttress through the trees. The first 5 pitches are pretty easy and we simul most of it getting to the large ledge at the base of the crux pitch which looks decidedly not easy, at least for me.

Jo making it look easy!



Andrew bravely leading up the 10c pitch



Me struggling up the 10c pitch and barely getting it.



Only 1 more pitch of 5.6 and then a great 2 pitch 5.7 puts us on the summit.

Victorious summit shot!



Feeling good back at camp. Rain days are coming which means rest days and scheming for the Grand Wall

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