Thursday, June 26, 2008

Last week at City of Rocks etc.

Just wanted to give a review of what I did at City of Rocks last week.

Lets see I got back to City of Rocks from the Pioneer Mtns Thursday nite. I had staked out my first spot at the BLM camping for nearly two weeks, so was a little bummed when I was only able to get the second spot. However it turned out great because I met another couple with whom to climb. Russ and Sharon are from Seattle and had quit their jobs in October and sold their house and bought an RV. On a climbing roadtrip since then! Putting my little gallivanting to shame. They were kind enough to share dinner and wine with me, and even better to provide climbing partners.

Friday June 20th

Got up early to beat the heat, and headed to the back side of Bath Rock (in the shade) Sharon lead up a nice 5.9 called Private Idaho, and then I went and lead up a 10a named Coffee and Cornflakes. Sort of neat, but a little scary getting to the first bolt 40 feet off the ground. Luckily I was able to put a sling around a rock horn to provide some intermediate protection. Especially since the next moves past three bolts were steep!

Me pulling through the crux on Coffee and Cornflakes



Russ then went up Colossus, the most popular 10c in the City. Felt pretty easy but still fun climbing.

Me nearing the crux on Colussus



Since Sharon had never done any trad before we went over to the Breadloaves and I did Intruding Dike a nice 5.7 trad line. Basically the quartz had intruded into the granite and then eroded faster, leaving a perfect inch and a half splitter through the wall.



Lastly we went and Toproped New Toy 10b, and Bloody Fingers. The latter which is becoming my favorite climb here at the city.

Saturday June 21st (the solstice!)

April, and her roommate/coworker Laura showed up yesterday evening with their friends from Wyoming, Andrew and Peter. After climbing so long by myself and then a day with the extremely relaxed and chill Russ and Sharon, spending a few days with 18-20 year olds was rather taxing to say the least. Nice kids and all but more than anything still kids. Loud, belligerent, irrespective, did I say loud? kids. But enough of that here is the tally of the days climbing.

Decadent Wall, Carols Cracks 5.8 trad line.
TR on New Toy (again)
Finally led Bloody Fingers which was my proudest lead yet at the City. It has a burly and committing lower crux which instead of just pulling through (which would have been easier but more dangerous fall potential) I felt great putting in 3 pieces through this section.

Since it was the solstice after we made dinner we went back up to Bath Rock and did the scramble up the top of the rock. Amazing spot with huge holes (the baths) in the rock. Everybody sort of found their own and chilled out and watched the sky on the longest day of the year. Was great to have some quiet time.

Sunday June 22nd

More climbing with the kids.

Went to the Incisor a really great spire formation near parking lot rock. It was pretty crowded but we got on a few sport routes (sorta) The 10a that I led only a few bolts up very thin and insecure face climbing, to a barely there tips seam that protected with extremely small cams. Last moves were great as you traversed back tothe anchors via an undercling out a giant roof. Did a 5.9 called Scream Cheese and a 10b called Fall Line.

Rain gladly putting an end to this strangely tense and grumpy day for everyone.

Lightening above our tents at the BLM (thanks to Russ for the pic)



Monday June 23rd

Hooked up again with Russ and Sharon, and went to Castle Rocks. Castle is a satellite area of the City and is visible as you drive in. The general impression is "oh look a couple more rocks over there" In fact it is a huge area with potential for 1000s of climbs. Amazing the scale difference as you approach these formations. Things that look like boulders from the road are 150 feet tall! April went off to hike and be by herself for awhile, and Russ, Sharon, and I chased the shade around the main Castle Rock. Ended up doing 8 pitches with all but one being 5.10 climbing! here is the litany.


Castle Moat 5.8 odd slab moves to enjoyable and easy 5.8
Blind Pig 10a easy diagonal face line.
Unknown 10c super thin technical crimping next to Blind Pig (nice lead Russ!)
Unkown 10d to Unknown 10a on the North Face (10d wasnt bad actually and the 10a was super exposed and fun.
April came back and did a hard 10b crimp line.
Russ led a fun and not too hard but with fun moves 10c
At the end of the day I managed to make my way up (2 falls) a short 12a. While it was 12 moves everything else was 5.9 making it a good introduction to the grade.

Me on the 10d arete




April on her hard crimpy 10b




After that long day April and I headed in the direction of the Sawtooths where we hoped to meet up with Pete and Tim whom we had met at the City a few weeks prior. Ended up camping at a great spot south of Twins Falls called Rock Creek Canyon. Isolated, and wild. Neat spot.

Tuesday 24th of June

Went to Dierkes Lake near Twin Falls. Hot! A neat Basalt area on the Snake river. I did lots of bouldering on chocolate basalt blocks while April washed our clothes in the lake. Shredded my tips on the boulders, but was fun just walking around and being able to casually get on anything at all. April finished up washing and promptly sent a hard boulder that started with a 10 foot horizontal roof to a knee bar and hard rock over move to get to the top. Spent some time swimming in the lake and getting cleaner than I have been in weeks.

Self Portrait on an Unknown boulder at Dierkes Lake

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