Monday, June 16, 2008

Day 7 Friday 13th

Wow didnt even realize that it was friday the 13th before I was writing this. Not that I am suspicious just an interesting tidbit.

Did in fact meet some rather nice people this morning in the Decadent Wall parking lot. Tyler and Erik from SLC. Wish i got a better picture of him as he looks like a young Ozzie! Was going to go setup some Trs and actually did one on the back side of Go West (make it hurt 10a) but then met them down at Parking lot Rock. Was surprised at how much a missed actually being with other people. I was tired from the previous day so I let them lead everything and basically just mooched off of them all day.

Here is the litany of what we did. Tow away zone, 10a balancy lieback moves then easier crack for 100 feet. Funky bolt 9 supposed to be a classic, maybe for the leader but nothing special for just following. Thin Slice 10a my favorite line of the day. Just like it sounds straight finger locks through a few bulges. Stress Fracture 10b, super hard flared moves through a small opening roof to some nice crack, then a 5 inch crack through a ten foot roof! Luckily you can mostly face climb around the heinous looking crack.



Roadkill 10b actually sort of interesting, climbs though a watergroove that looks like it has been pin scarred (overuse of pitons) but is actually a natural feature. There would be tiny pockets for your fingers at the back of this rounded groove. After that there was some pretty hard slab with few holds near the top.

To end the day we found a climb called Drilling Fields 11a huge holds the whole way up but steep!! Took one fall on it but managed the rest second try. Sport climbing would be good to build up endurance.

Tyler leading up Drilling Fields





Stayed for awhile with those guys and their friends Fred and Chad at their campsite. Fred is nuts, probably 50 years old still putting up new routes climbs 13 something and goes on apparently suicidal ski tours near SLC. All the bravado definitely turned me off to my rekindled interest in humankind. I promised to go send some “sick routes” the next day but had no intention on keeping that promise and slunk down to my BLM site.

2 comments:

Unknown said...

Drilling Fields looks like fun to me. Bouldery?

Dominic said...

Bouldery with huge hands! just happens to overhang by about 10 degrees otherwise it would be 5.6. move quick that think is pumpy!